Italy is not a country of early risers. Whilst in New York, a 5 a.m. wake-up is quite normal, in Milano, the entire city is still under the covers. By 7, you might hear sheets rustling. You might see Sophia and Marcello (Anna and Renzo) escaping the city in her husband’s Rolls-Royce. 7:30: finalmente, the cafes begrudgingly open. I am always one of the first ones, and please be warned, Americana morning energy is not highly encouraged. Let the machine warm up. Allow the barista a few extra moments to settle into the day. Bean by bean, they will arrive at their usual personality, their friendly smile, and that confident, behind-the-bar choreography. The sound of the espresso cup on its saucer is cacophonous in an otherwise silent cafe. It’s one of my favourite sounds.

(if you haven’t watched Ieri, Oggi, Domani, shame on you)

For a cafe, my usual place is Marchesi in Montenapoleone. There are other Marchesi locations, such as in the Galleria or over in Sant’Ambrogio, but everyone has their ‘homebase’ where they feel most comfortable and know the staff. Over the years, every time I go, even if it’s been months and months since my last brioche vuota, I still see familiar faces and receive hugs and warm, genuine smiles. It’s sort of like Cheers; you want to go where everyone knows your name. Marchesi is a literal stage set of pastel colours, exquisite cakes, the most mouth-watering pastries, and magazine-worthy decor. Every aspect of the cafe is on point for a photograph. By 9 a.m. it is positively bustling, and everyone is freshly coiffed, in shoes to die for and outfits that make you immediately feel underdressed for just another day in Milano. The baristas are on a stage. The theatrics are immense. Eyes rove the bar from all angles. ‘Who do I know here? Who is a new face?’ Oh ciao! Ciao! Come stai?!

Milano during the week is a perfect place to be busy. The Italian culture is one of relationships; this is especially important in one’s professional life. Meetings should be done in person. If you are just visiting, do your homework on interesting people who live here. Write to them if you’re curious to meet. Tell them you’d love to learn more about what they do. If you have a good enough reason why, even if it’s, “one day, I might like to do something similar,” I guarantee you they will be generous with their time. The best way to understand and experience a culture is to spend time with its people. A phenomenally under-utilized way to reinvigorate inspiration is to pass an hour or two with a charming, supremely focussed and talented person. The Italians are artists, each and every one of them. They are not as distracted as Americans seem to be lately, and whether their artistry is in public relations, interior design, property investment, or Riva yachts, they will leave you with more than enough gusto to satiate for a good long while.

If you need a lovely, convivial yet peaceful meeting spot, I recommend the garden and/or garden cafe at Villa Necchi Campiglio. This will set you up for a divine stroll in one of the city’s most elegant neighbourhoods: in and around Via Mozart. It doesn’t get more Milanese than this. Walk slowly and take note of the sublime entrances—some ornate, some modern, some art deco. It is a feast for the beauty-lover’s eyes.

For a June lunch, I would suggest sitting in the garden at Bulgari, which is a fabulous treat and makes for excellent people-watching. The menu is utter perfection and each plate comes out so exquisitely you are hesitant to touch it. Once you dine at Bulgari, it’s really quite hard to go elsewhere. I sound supremely spoiled saying this, but it’s true. It’s also one of the only gardens in the city where you can dine al fresco surrounded by greenery. If you don’t make it for lunch, don’t fret— it is one of my top suggestions for aperitivo.
Other lovely lunch spots for a June lunch include Erba Brusca on the other side of the city. This is charm personified. Think hyper-local cuisine, creative flair, colourful decor, and record players. There is even a bocce court in the back. The place feels like someone’s home, rather than a restaurant, and exudes a warmth that will make the trip to this farther afield neighbourhood worth it.

If you are crunched for time and want a quick, healthy bite as you wander the streets of Brera, head to Centro Botanico, the little organic market. It is one of the best-kept under the radar lunch spots. I used to go with one of my girlfriends all the time. We’d have delicious vegetables with rice, grains, or tofu and catch up on work, men, or life surrounded by low-key stylish, artsy Brera people. I love it dearly.

For shopping and unusual finds, the city is your oyster. There is no wrong answer to this. Brera has many clothing and home furnishing shops as well as a few artistry stores, as the famous art school is located here. I like Via Solferino. Sant’Ambrogio also has quite a dense shopping area, and a meander around the little streets that shoot off Via S. Maurilio is lovely as well. Laboratorio Paravicini is an extraordinary star on the map. Here you can see handmade ceramics being painted one by one. It’s not allowed to step into the studio, but if you intend to shop and are extra gracious, you might just get a peek.

Aperitivo is life in Italy. This is social hour, and if you have not already learned, the Italians are a highly social culture. From 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., the streets are filled with friends, lovers, wanderers, and professionals with a glass of something in one hand and (say it ain’t so, but it is) a cigarette in the other. Most places do aperitivo, even a very basic caffe or tavola calda. As mentioned, Bulgari aperitivo is divine, especially with the garden. The five star hotels do a fine job competing for the best aperitivo platter. It can indeed become a full meal, rendering a home-cooked dinner or 9 p.m. reservation superfluous. N’Ombra de Vin in Brera is a classic and gets very crowded on warm evenings where the crowds spill onto Via S. Marco. Camparino in Galleria is an old-school classic, an arms reach from the Duomo. Bar Basso is an editorial masthead’s preferred spot. The new Portrait Milano has seating within the expansive courtyard which is quite something, and of course the Four Seasons courtyard is always an elegant option. Every neighbourhood has limitless aperitivo options; go for a wander and stop when you feel your energies align.

For dinner, if you’re still hungry, I’ll always vote for any of the Langosteria locations, though the Caffe in Galleria is my favourite. If you’re craving something other than Italian, Gastronomia Yamamoto serves homestyle Japanese. Ristorante La Brisa is a lovely, refined option off the main Corso Magenta, and it has a pretty room with windows on all sides, which is lovely on a warm June evening.

If you expect a nice, soothing tisana after a long, full day, I suggest heading to one of the beautiful hotels and sitting in the lounge area. Splurge for a good tea, which will undoubtedly be served in exquisite serve ware with a piattino of biscotti. Italians are not enormous tea drinkers, so the tea selection at most restaurants is not robust.

Get a good night’s sleep; tomorrow there is art to see, museums to visit, and shopping to be done!